Saturday, January 31, 2009

America, I love you

So this week we have seen some serious regression in the area of experiencing authentic Spanish culture. It just kind of worked out that everything noteworthy that we did this week revolved around finding anything reminiscent of America here in Sevilla - and it was a really easy thing to do.


I'm not sure if I've stated this before, but I live in an area of the city called Los Remedios, which is the western portion of Sevilla and on the opposite side of the Rio Guadalquivir from El Centro. There are about 5 or 6 apartmetns of UNC students who live in Los Remedios and we have started a tradition of going out to dinner every Thursday Night. It's been a lot of fun, plus it's a nice change of pace, especially for me and Elizabeth because the food in our homestay has gotten pretty repetitive (we've had lentil soup 4 or 5 times already, and I don't even really like lentils). The first time we went to a tapas bar known mostly as a place for locals, the next time we want to a seafood restaurant, and the next we went out to get paella. This week we decided that we were in need of something a lot less Spanish, so we went out for pizza. It ended up being one of the better meals that we've had since we've been here. We ordered a ton of food - between 9 people we split 7 pizzas, 2 bottles of wine, 2 desserts, and a salad. Apparently we wracked up an abornormally high bill for a pizza place because when the waitress brought us the check it came with a free round of shots. Afterwards we all pretty much went home because most of us had a test the next day.

My program doesn't have class on Friday after the siesta, so we allows have a lot of time to kill between lunch and dinner. This Friday we went up to a part of the city called Nervion where there is a big shopping mall. It was about a 35-40 minute walk, but the weather was really nice so nobody really minded it. We got to the mall around 5:30 and it ended up having a lot less stores than we were expecting. We were going up the escalator trying to decide how we were going to kill the next 3 hours when we came across a TGI Friday's with a half-off happy hour drink specials from 5 until 8. Problem solved. We shopped for a little bit and then went to Friday's and ended up staying there for a couple of hours. It was really funny because, sitting in the restaurant, there was nothing to convince me that I was outside of the US - all of the food and drink names on the menu were in english, the waiter spoke to us in english, and all of the decorations in the restaurant were about New York and Chicago. There was another group of kids there from Texas Tech, so we hung out with them for a little while. We all had such a good time that we decided to make it our next tradition - Fridays at Friday's.

On Saturday morning we took a field trip to Italica, a site of ruins of an old Roman city approximately 2,000 years old. The main attraction there was an old amphitheatre, but the grounds of the site also had ruins of other parts of the city, including houses, a spa, and even a barber shop (called a "peluqueria" in Spain). It was beautiful, and the weather was great so our pictures came out awesome. The profile picture for my blog actually came from our visit to Italica - it is of myself and my friends Jordan and Rebecca standing on the second tier of the amphitheatre. Our Art and Culture professor was our tour guide and I'm pretty sure he knows just about everything there is to know about Spainish history so it was an interesting trip.

Saturday night the American charade continued. We went to a bar/restaurant called Texas Lonestar Saloon right in the center of the city to watch the Carolina/NC State basketball game. More or less every kid from our program was there, and since our program has about 60 kids in it we more or less took the place over. We were pretty loud and obnoxious, which made it all the more fun; we had cheers going back and fourth and yelled at the TV a lot, especially at the cheap shot that McCauley took at Copeland at the end of the game. When it was over we all sang our alma mater/fight song just like on the hill. It wasn't quite like watching the game at the Dean Dome or on Franklin Street, but it was still a great time. We are all pumped to watch the first Duke game, although it doesn't come on until 3 am here, and I have to catch a 9:55 flight to Paris the next morning. That's going to be a very late night/early morning.

After the game we ended up at an irish pub (in Spain, yes) close to Texas Lonestar saloon because it was raining and we didn't want to walk far. We were there for awhile - it was pretty crowded and a DJ started around midnight. No suprise, they played very American music including the Grease soundtrack, the theme song from Friends, and the YMCA. And to cap it all off, we are going back to the Texas place tonight to watch the superbowl.

Next week we'll get back to cultural immersion.

Sunday, January 25, 2009

Chicken Liver and Monsoons

I keep saying I will update more, but it never really happens.

I feel as though I'm really starting to settle into Sevilla - we all constantly talk about how we feel like we have been here for 3 months instead of just 3 weeks. I'm glad about that though because the city is definitely feeling more and more familiar each day. Can't say that much for the food though with one particular experience sticking out in memory. At the beginning of the week Elizabeth and I were eating lunch when our senora put a plate of what seemed to be stewed beef in front of us. We both tried it at the same time and could barely swallow; we then found out it was liver. Easily the most disgusting thing I've ever tried in my life. Our senora tried to get us to eat more by telling us that it was from chicken and that she's had American students in the past who loved it. It wasn't convincing enough to get us to try it again. I'm definitely open to new culinary experiences but I think I have to draw the line at vital organs, no matter what they come from.

This week went by quickly and without anything too exciting- it rained a lot so going out was not as much fun. We took two field trips with the program- one to the Cathedral and one to the Palace. Both were beautiful but I'm going to have to go back when the weather is better, especially to the Palace because the gardens that surrounded it were incredible. On Tuesday we all watched the Inauguration; some kids went to a bar to watch it while others, myself included, watched it at school. Some of the kids who went to the bar were interviewed and made the local news. I also tried churros con chocolate for the first time. It's a very popular dessert in Spain that basically tastes like a funnel cake with a side of thick chocolate milk to dip it in - pretty amazing. Best part was we found a stand that sells them until later than 5 am. Perfect late night food.

This was the first weekend that kids in our program started to travel; weekends can be pretty lazy here so it's really common for study abroad students to travel more or less at the end of every week. Some of my friends went to Lisbon, Portugal and some went to Ronda, a cliffside town in Andalucia. Elizabeth and I stayed in Sevilla on Saturday and took a day trip to Carmona this morning - a small village about 30 miles outside of Sevilla. We caught a bus at 10 am and arrived in Carmona by 10:45. On the upside, it was beautiful. The town itself is very small and sits on a large group of hills in the countryside. All of the streets were cobblestone, the buildings were all whitewashed with wrought-iron gates and balconies, and there were several old churches and castles that looked hundreds of years old. The downside was the weather was horrible - it rained steadily all morning. We spent most of the time just walking around and exploring. At one point we climbed to the top of the hill and saw an incredible view overlooking the Spanish countryside. We enjoyed it for about 2 seconds until the heavens opened up. We started running back down the hill and naturally the monsoon followed us. By the time that we got back to where the bus stop was we were both so wet that we decided to catch an earlier bus back home. 

That's pretty much it for now. This week should be more exciting- Grace's birthday is on Thursday and we probably going to go to Ronda this weekend.  Also our first big trip is coming up soon- a bunch of us are going to Paris the weekend of Valentine's Day, so I'm pumped about that. Stay in touch- miss you guys! Oh and happy belated birthday Ben!

Sunday, January 18, 2009

Week 2 in Sevilla

I really need to update this more frequently so I don't have so much to say everytime that I make a new post. It's been difficult because our school is closed on weekends and internet access in Spain is no where near as easy to come by as it is in the states. Luckily Elizabeth and I found a cafe with WiFi so we could respond to our massive amounts of e-mail and I could update my blog. Ok here was week 2.



Classes started this week and in a lot of ways we hit the ground running. I'm taking four courses, all of which are in Spanish- a grammar class, a literature class, an art and culture class, and a history/poli-sci class on Spain and the European Union. It was a bit of a rude awakening because we all realized that we were going to have more work than we expected. We also have an attendance policy, so skipping class isn't as simple as we thought it would be either. Basically the start of classes served as a reminder that we ultimately came here to study the language and not just run around Spain everyday- like I said, a rude awakening.



The classes were also encouraging in a way because one of my main concerns coming over here was the fact that I had not taken any formal spanish classes since high school. I was originally worried that I would be far behind everyone else in my program who had been studying Spanish at UNC, but as far as I can tell thus far I'm pretty much on the same level as everyone else.



The weather here was pretty bad this week- very rainy and cold. Although I guess I can't really complain because all I keep hearing from Dad is that the weather in the US is bitterly cold. During the day we all more or less spent most of our time at EUSA (our school). There isn't much point in spending time our apartments- 1) because its always so cold and 2) because there is literally nothing to do there besides eat and sleep. Also with classes starting this week I got a better idea of what my daily schedule is going to be like. We go to school in the morning, go back home for La Siesta, and then go back to school at night. It's really weird, I think I prefer the way they schedule things in the States. I read somewhere that Spain has one of most sluggish economies in Europe and there a lot of theories that La Siesta contributes to this because it halts productivity.



On to the less boring stuff- we had a lot of fun this week going out at night. During the week we just went to bars and other places that we had been before, so nothing too exciting. Friday night, however, we made a serious effort to experience more culture. We went out to dinner at a restaurant in El Centro called Barbiana; it is a seafood restaurant that was recommended by one of our guidebooks and was described as "moderately priced." It was a cool place- the front was a tapas bar, which was packed, and the back was a dining room. We ate in the actual restaurant and learned quickly that there is a serious difference between what our guidebooks and what we consider to be "moderately priced." Now I officially have no curiosity to try one of the expensive restuarants. Also, all of the dishes that were recommended and described in english in the guidebook turned out to be house specialties during the summer, so we couldn't order them. Most kids had either already eaten and just order a small appetizer or ordered something familiar, like tomato soup. Elizabeth and I were starving so we both just picked something- all we knew was that we ordered fish. It was called "salmonetes," which I thought was salmon. Wrong. I don't know what kind of fish it was, I can only describe it: as far as I could tell, 8 small fish had been pulled out of the ocean, fried, and thrown on my plate. Minus their eyes, everything was still intact- faces, spines, fins, everything. I ate most of it- minus the occasional bone that I swallowed, it tasted like any other kind of white fish- but it definitely took me a minute to get past the fact that my food was looking at me.



After dinner we went to an area of the city called Barrio Santa Cruz. It's an old Jewish ghetto (not the same connotation as in the US; they use the word "ghetto" here just to describe an ethnic neighborhood, not to insinuate poverty) and quickly became one of my favorite places in the city. It epitomizes Mediterranean Spain- narrow cobblestone streets, open courtyards, whitewashed buildings with wrought-iron balconies, and overflowing flowerpots. It's beautiful. We went to a bar called La Carboneria for a free midnight flamenco show. The place was packed. We found a table towards the back and ordered a pitcher of Agua de Sevilla, which is the drink that the city is known for. We have no idea what was in it because they keep the recipe a secret, but it tasted something like pineapple juice, whiskey, a bunch of other unidentifiable ingrediants, and was topped with whipped cream. It was weird. The flamenco show was really cool- it was just a guitarrist, a singer, and a dancer. It was a little shorter than we expected, but we think that was because it was free. Afterwards we hung out at the bar for a little while longer before going out to a club. It was a great night.

On Saturday I slept really late and spent the day wandering around the city with UNC kids. It was a relaxing day, although I was a little bummed out not to be in NYC for Jenny and Dan's wedding (congrats guys!- hope it was awesome).

This upcoming week we have 3 field trips which we are all pretty excited about, so I'll definitely have plenty to write about over the next few days. Please fill me in on everything that is going on with you all, I don't like feeling disconnected from what's happening at home. Miss you all - hasta luego!

P.S. If anyone is as addicted to American Idol as my mom, there is a contestant on there this year named Anoop Desai from UNC. Rolling Stone magazine named him one of the ones to watch- vote for him!!!

Wednesday, January 14, 2009

¡Hola a Todos!

How is everyone?!- I miss you all so much! I´ve gotten a lot of e-mails from different people asking about how my semester has been so far and I was in the process of writing a mass e-mail until Corgan suggested I start a blog instead (thanks!). I´ve been in Sevilla for a week and thus far I have loved every minute of it. The city is absolutely beautiful- there are old spanish gardens everywhere, the architecture is incredible, and all of the streets are lined with orange trees. Here´s an update on everything that has been going on; I´m sure this is repetitive for some of you (sorry about that) and it´s definitely long for everyone- a lot has happened this week. I´ll try to update more often so that I don´t leave a novel for you guys to read everytime I upload a new post. Also, sorry for any weird typos in these posts- the spanish keyboards are hard to get used to. Ok here we go...

Tuesday/Wednesday: Traveling here was...really bad. Grace and I left Charlotte at 12:47 pm, flew to Detroit and had a short layover there, and then boarded my flight to Amsterdam. It took off about 30 minutes late because naturally the weather in Detroit was awful. The flight to Europe took about 7.5 hours and was pretty bumpy and uncomfortable; I had never been on a flight that long, so I had never really tested my ability to sleep on an airplane until last week - and I found out that I can´t do it at all (although it didn´t help to be sitting next to a very large man from France who snored the entire time). We landed in Amsterdam around 6:15 (about 20 minutes late because of the delay in Detroit), 10 minutes after our connection to Madrid had started boarding. We ran through the airport, got held up at customs, and just barely made the flight. We landed in Madrid around 10:00 am and found out that our luggage didn´t make the connecting flight. We met a kid named Austin from Texas Tech who had the same problem as us, as well as 4 other kids from our program, so we all camped out in the airport together. Most of our luggage arrived around 3:30, but some bags were still missing, so we didn´t get out of the airport until 5 pm. We took the train from Madrid to Sevilla and finally arrived in the city around 8:30- two hours later than we were supposed to arrive. In total, from door to door, we all logged at least 30 hours traveling time. By the end we were all dead.

Thursday: In the morning we moved into our homestays. I met my roommate and she´s awesome- her name is Elizabeth and she is sophomore at UNC from Texas. We live with a retired woman (our "seƱora") named Angeles who lives alone with her cat...and fits that stereotype perfectly. She´s nice and is a pretty good cook, but she is very, very stingy- we are dealing with serious generation gaps. We live in an apartment in an area of the city called Los Remedios, which is pretty far from our school but close to Calle Betiz, which is the street with a lot of the restaurants and bars, so I have no complaints about that :) The apartment itself is really nice (Elizabeth and I each have our own room, which is great!). The only thing that is awful is the fact that is is FREEZING. There is no central heat in the houses here, and Spain is in the middle of its worst cold front in 15 years. I have to sleep in 3 layers and with 5 blankets. It´s nuts.

Thursday night: I went out with a bunch of kids from my program- everyone gets along so well, we have had a great time together so far. We were expecting to experience some serious culture shock with the difference between American nightlife and Spanish nightlife...and we couldn´t have been more wrong. We ended up at two bars- the first was called La Funducion, but ever since that night we have called it "The Frat House." The second we walked in the bartenders started pulling out Budweisers and setting up beer pong tables while Lil´Wayne and Rhianna played in the background. It felt as if I had never left Chapel Hill. The second bar was called Long Island and actually had a UNC pennant on the ceiling. So much for cultural diversity.

Friday: Nothing really exciting- we had meetings at the school all day. However, this was the first day that I really felt the difference in the way that Spaniards structure their day in comparison to Americans. In Spain, people generally wake up later and go to work around 9:30 or 10:00 and work until 2:00. This part of the day is called "La Siesta". Everything closes and everyone goes home for lunch- the biggest meal of the day- and a nap/rest. Then, at 5:00, everyone returns to work and all stores and businesses stay open until 9:00. It´s been interesting and a little difficult to get used to- it makes the days last so much longer. I do like the afternoon nap though; I don´t think I could get through the day without it, especially the mornings after we all go out.

Saturday: Our program set up a scavenger hunt around the city, and if it weren´t for the fact that this was the coldest morning so far, it would have been really awesome. Still, despite the weather, we got to see some really cool stuff. We ended up in the main part of the city, which is called El Centro, and spent the rest of the afternoon exploring and shopping. That night we went out to bars and clubs in El Centro. That night we learned first-hand that Spaniards go out and stay out very, very late- we went home around 4:15 am and all of the bars were more crowded than ever.

Sunday: Elizabeth and I slept really late and spent what was left of the morning/early afternoon doing organizational stuff for school the next day. After la siesta I met a group of friends and we went exploring around the city. Around 6:00 we went to our first tapas bar- these are a big part of Spanish culture, especially here in the Andalucia region. Tapas are small plate appetizers meant to be split between a group of people. We really didn´t know what to order, so we got a pitcher of sangria and told the waiter to suprise us with different dishes- this was a good call, the food was awesome. Afterwards we wandered around some more and found something crucial- a group of bars showing the Giants/Eagles game. I was pumped!- until we lost. Good news was one of the bars we found that night told us that they would show UNC basketball games and all of the tournament in March. Now if we could only start playing like the #1 team in the country again, everything would be great!

Monday: Classes started, but I´ll leave that for the next post.

Please stay in touch- I want to know how everyone is doing back home!

Early congratulations to Dan and Jen! I´m so bummed I can´t be there with you guys, but have an amazing weekend and say hello to everyone for me!

Miss and love you guys! ¡Hasta luego!